On July 19th, 1913, Doris Kathleen Spicer (sitting) and her sister Norah Spicer embarked on a return voyage from Barry, Wales, UK to Buenos Aires, Argentina. They sailed on the Steam Ship St. Oswald with their father, the ship’s captain, Walter Blythe Spicer.

This is the diary Doris Spicer kept during her journey, which includes some photographs taken by her and her sister along the way. She also gathered a variety of intriguing postcards. I have included additional photographs and postcards of interest.

The handwritten pages have been transcribed and retain their original text, with minor corrections for spelling and punctuation. My notes or explanations are provided in brackets or italics.

The diary begins at the Barry Docks (Welsh: Dociau’r Barri). The Docks is a port facility in the town of Barry, Vale of Glamorgan, Wales, a few miles southwest of Cardiff on the north shore of the Bristol Channel.

[Diary Begins]

July 19th Saturday
Father came up to Cousin Agatha’s and took us (Agatha, Pansy, Eileen, and Auntie Pip) down to Barry Docks, where we went on board. Had tea, said goodbye to the cousins and about 7 pm we made a good start. The night gloriously fine and clear and the sea smooth.

July 20th Sunday
Awakened at 6:00am feeling very squeamish. Got up at 7:30am and then we knew all about it. Both awfully sick, managed to dress under difficulties staggered up to father’s room. Could eat nothing except a little dry toast. In afternoon lay down in chairs on deck. Fresh air revived us and we gradually became better. All very quiet on board, just like a Sunday, no more work than necessary done. Saw several passing vessels, beautiful moonlight night. Turned in at 10:00pm feeling dead beat.

July 21st Monday
Awakened to find another sunshiny morning. Midway across the Bay of Biscay, sea calm. Feeling better able to eat a little. Decks washed down, saw observations taken with sextant.

Weather getting warmer and days shorter as we go further south. Did some knitting, one of the canaries’ eggs hatched, great excitement. In the evening had gramophone going. Fritz sang the German songs. He did cut a funny little figure in pants 2 sizes too small for him, but for all that he seems to be a plucky little chap. Weather changed towards midnight.

Wind and waves made such a noise could not sleep. Towards early morning became calm again but foggy. Foghorn blowing at intervals of 3 minutes (for an hour) when fog lifted so altogether had a rather disturbed night. Passed Cape Finisterre [Ecabo Finisterre, Spain] at midnight.

July 22nd Tuesday
Sea calm, cooler rather dull. Both feeling much better. Did morning exercise by pacing deck. No need for skipping yet as so far I must have lost weight with seasickness.

Sighted school of porpoises off Portuguese coast. Chief engineer sent present of strawberry jam and cake to us. Enjoyed a good dinner (good sign). Sampled chefs’ cake teatime also jams. Both OK, but liked jam best. Did more knitting and some writing. Dad’s gramophone again in the evening, turned in at 9:30pm.

July 23rd Wednesday
Awakened at 6:30am feeling very fit after best night so far. More sunshine and very warm. Thin clothes on. Tried our skill at shooting with a rifle. Target too small but managed to hit it a few times out of many. 1st mate took some snapshots. Wrote more letters and did some knitting. In the evening played whist with mate and engineer. Turned in at 10:00pm after having our first bath at sea.

July 24th Thursday
Got up at 7:00am did usual exercise on deck. Wrote to Keewaytin [the home of parents of Doris Spicer’s fiance, Walter Nicholson in West Kirby, England] Did some more shooting and more knitting, awnings stretched on deck, getting warmer. Took observation of sun at 8 bells. Bells and telegraphs are rung everyday at noon together. Rest of canaries eggs hatched making 4 youngsters, Passed Union Castle Liner quite close at 4:00pm, Norah took a snap of her. Played whist again, magnificent sunset the after glow glorious!

July 25th Friday
Awakened to find another sunny morning. Got up at 7:00am had a salt-water bath. It was grand!!! Had a good breakfast. More knitting, wrote to cousins and Leonard[her brother]. Took photos of some of the crew on duty. 2nd mate made a hammock for us. Did some mending for father. More shooting hit target 5 out of 11 times and Norah 6 out of 11 times. Studied poultry raising. At about 10:00pm sighted Las Palmas. Quite nice to see land again! Beautiful starry night and sea calm. Anchored outside the breakwater at midnight Turned in at 11:00pm.

July 26th Saturday
Laying in breakwater off Las Palmas. Another glorious morning and very hot. Got up at 5:15am and dressed ready to go ashore at 7:00am, went ashore in a steam launch. Father hired a little trap and we had a drive round town. Roads very bad, we were jigged about all over the place. More like a donkey ride than any thing else. Most of these little traps are drawn by mules. Bought sortie cane chairs, lace and tablecloths. I had breakfast at English Hotel. Afterwards drove to Cathedral saw a religious ceremony and procession. Went into cathedral heard some fine music. From there we drove to banana plantation and back again to the wharf 10:30am.

Most of the people were Spanish with black hair and olive complexion and sparkling dark eyes. The women and girls wore long white or black dresses and cloths on their head, which were very becoming and picturesque. I was struck with the lazy dreamy way the people walked about due to the tropical climate. Most of the houses have flat roofs and all flat windows, which only have glass at the top half the lower portion is of wooden shutters with a little square door in. It was funny to see these little doors opened every now and again and a head pop out to see what was going on outside. We didn’t see any tempting shop windows like one sees at home. The shopkeepers don’t display their goods like we do, but are arranged like our penny bazaars. We saw many herds of goats, goats milk being much used.

continued…July 26th
We were on board again at about 11:00am and we sailed for Buenos Aires. In the afternoon lounged about until 4:00pm had afternoon tea and at 4:30pm. Father gave the signal for boat drill by sounding the steam whistle. It was quite exciting to see all the new crew who were off duty rushing to get their life belts and those who were on duty were supplied with belts. It was interesting to see which boat would be lowered first The port one was the first out. All this only took 10 mins. to do. In the evening had more shooting, turned in at 9:15pm.

July 27th Sunday
More sunshine. Wash down in the engine room, stoke hole, and along shaft tunnel. Shovelled on some coal, all most interesting. Read in the afternoon. In the evening hymns on the gramophone. Turned in at 10:00pm into hammocks on deck. Too hot to sleep in our own cabin.

July 28th Monday
More sunshine but a fairly heavy sea, Moderate wind NE Trade, tropics much warmer. Did some washing more knitting and reading. evening cards, turned in at 10:30pm.

July 29th Tuesday
Dull, sea still choppy. Saw flying fish, had some cooked for breakfast OK! Did some ironing and mending. Turned in at 10:30pm.

July 30th Wednesday
Sunshine, sea calm with swell. taking all energy out of one. Norah’s canary hatched and eyes open and turned in at 9:30pm. Shark sighted long side boat. Very hot at all well, Did more knitting, etc. wings developing rapidly. Wet night. Squally.

July 31st Thursday
Fine morning sea still with a swell. Went along to see a little sick apprentice boy, did what we could to make him comfy. Norah felt a little better. Altered some trousers for father and pressed them. Saw magnificent sunset the beautiful colouring of the sky indescribable!!!. Southern Cross sighted. This a constellation of 4 stars forming a cross. Days growing much shorter, dark at 6:30pm. Wet night. Squally.

August 1st Friday
Dull and very sultry. No energy, don’t like tropical heat. Norah still not well, apprentice boy better. Turned in early feeling very sick. Heat very trying!

August 2nd Saturday
Fine and sunny. Norah and myself still feeling seedy. No energy, turned in after taking a good dose of medicine each.

August 3rd Sunday
Moderate sea fine but still very sultry. Feeling awfully sick. Crossed the Equator at 4:30pm. Hymns on gramophone. Turned in early. Saw new moon.

August 4th Monday
Strong wind, moderate sea, sun shine all day. Passed island of Fernando De Noranha [Brazil] where Brazilian convicts are deported. Saw rock in the shape of a soldier lying down. Still feeling the heat too much. Will be glad when it gets cooler.

August 5th Tuesday
Glad to awakened find it not quite so warm, nice fresh wind. Both feeling better, hardly any motion sea very calm. Did some shooting, knocked 3 bottles down at a distance of 40 yards. Then had a game of draughts with the chief engineer, was beaten. In afternoon knitted, took photo of young canaries off South American coast in the line of traffic. Sighted 3 vessels on the horizon. 2nd officer tried to call the one on the port side up by Morse code but found it was foreign vessel. Strong wind blowing and squally. Turned in early.

August 6th Wednesday
Bright sunshine nice refreshing breeze, feeling very fit. Did more shooting, usual exercise etc. All very well, but I would like a real good walk. Been hoping to see some big fish for days. Only saw whale spouting water in the distance so far. Another fine sunset what magnificent colouring… No twilight, dark at 6:30pm moonlight night and such inspiring. Saw moon setting.

August 7th Thursday
Usual glorious sunshine. Smooth sea, Vessel about 4 miles ahead of us, gradually overtaking it, quite exciting. Sighted at 4:00am overtaken at 2:00pm. Studied more on poultry keeping. Another lovely sunset, dark clouds tipped with blood red, a weird sight. Steamer we passed chief mate called up on Morse code and found that it was bound for Buenos Aires from Barry and had been out 21 days. Sat out on deck being a lovely moonlit night. Turned in at 10:30pm

August 8th Friday
More glorious sunshine. The eldest canary hopped out of the nest, how proud the mother bird was. More shooting, knocked bottles down ok. Both getting better shots. Visited the ship’s farm yard. Get 2 fresh eggs a day, most acceptable! Saw a whale and a thrasher pursuing it. (The thrasher and sword fish are the enemies of the whale and both work together to kill the whale.) Also a bird called a boatswain. It is but has only a single feather for a tail. Did some crochet. Played whist turned in at about 10:00pm.

August 9th Saturday
Usual glorious sunshine. Did some crocheting. Boat drill, port boat out first again. Pass St. Thome Cabo de Sao Thomas, [Cabo de São Tomé, Brazil] lighthouse. Not a very good sunset, bad weather ahead.

August 11th Monday
Sea moderating, but a heavy swell. Both still very sea sick. Norah stayed in bed all day, I lay down on the settee, simply daren’t move. Read and slept most of the time, Turned in at 8:00pm.

August 12^th Tuesday
Sunshine once more. Both feeling OK again. Did knitting and wrote part.of my letter to Wal [Mr. Walter K. Nicholson, her fiance]. Saw some Cape Pigeons and Molilowks.

August 13^th Wednesday
Fine calm morning, off the coast of Uruguay. Preparations for going into port being made. Funnel painted, ship being generally tidied up.

August 14th Thursday
Fine calm weather, Passed the lighthouses Polonis [Cabo Polonia, Uruguay] and Santa Maria [Cabo Santa Maria, Uruguay] and in the afternoon passed Lobos Island [Isla de Lobos, Uruguay] Sea Wolf lighthouse and quarantine station. Fine sunset. Darkness sets in very early about 6:00pm. Sight a sailing vessel with ropes of sails laying against her masts flapping lazily, so she, poor thing was making poor progress. At 9:00pm well into the Rio de la Plata having passed English Bank Lightship, which marks a very dangerous bank.

The lights of Montevideo [Uruguay], are seen on our starboard bow twinkling in the distance. Making good progress to Recalada lightship and pilot station where we will pick up the pilot. At 10:00pm went on the bridge, quickly approaching the pilot station. Norah and I set off blue lights as signal that a pilot was required, and were replied with a flare. At 10:20pm engines stopped, pilot came off to us in a motor boat. We then proceeded up the Rio de la Plata towards Buenos Aires.

August 15th Friday
Fine clear weather. Dropped the anchor in Buenos Aires Roads at 8:30pm. At 10:00am all hands mustered along the port side of deck for inspecting by Doctor in order to get bill of health. Father went ashore to give 24 hours notice which is necessary and get his orders. In the evening wrote several letters.

August 16th Saturday
Beautiful fresh morning. Steam launch came alongside with fresh meat and vegetables. Great excitement! especially after living on salt beef and haricot beans. No word as to when we are to dock, Spent morning in writing letters and knitting alone. In the afternoon did some sewing. Full moon. Interested in watching boats coming and leaving the roadstead.

August 17th Sunday
Fine clear morning. Two tug boats alongside at 8:00pm to tow us up into dock. Pilot on board. Picked father up on out way up. Not sufficient water in the dock, had to wait aside in the Boca. Spent the afternoon watching the traffic in the dock, could not get ashore. Bitten with mosquitoes. Monday still waiting to get a berth in the dock. Went ashore in the morning with father to the agent’s office met Capt. Day of the s/s Lynton had coffee with him. Did some shopping took films to be developed. Had dinner at the Cafe Luzio. Went to British Consulates. Then had tea on board the s/s Lynton and back home at 7:30pm. Raining hard and very cold.

August 19th Tuesday
Pouring with rain and very cold. Left eye all swollen with mosquito bite. Stayed on board all day. Moved into Darsana.

August 20th Wednesday
Father went ashore to do some business. Norah and I stayed on board and did some sewing instead as it was too wet. In the evening met Capt. Day at Luzios Cafe had a cup of coffee there and then went to seamans’ mission concert which was very good. Had supper at a cafe (coffee and sandwiches), then taxied down to the ship, the docks are not very safe at night, people often held up. Turned in 11:30pm.

August 21st Thursday
Saw some more of the old town streets very narrow with much traffic. Had some dinner at a German Cafe. Raining so went to a cinema. Went for photos, shown over the different departments of Lutz and Schultz the biggest photographers stores in BA [Buenos Aires]. Had a fine view of the city from the roof of this establishment. Got back on board in time for tea. Turned in at 9:30pm.

August 22nd Friday
Awakened feeling very seedy. Bilious attack! Too much coffee and cakes!!! Stayed on board all day. Norah and father went ashore in the morning. Washed some blouses out. Did crochet Turned in at 7:00pm.

August 23rd Saturday
Ironed blouses in the morning. I had bilious attack. Did not go ashore. Played cards in the evening. Turned in early.

August 24th Sunday
Beautiful morning. Went out to Belgrano [a quarter of Buenos Aires] in the afternoon to Canon Carney’s had tea and spent a very nice time there. Had supper with Capt. Day and Wareing.

August 25th Monday
Fine morning went ashore with father to the office for letters, but were none. Then walked up Avenida de Mayo, one of the finest avenues of Buenos Aires over a mile long and very wide. Had a real good walk and got back on board in time for dinner. In the evening Captains Day, Wareing, and Yates came on board for tea. Entertained them with the gramophone which they all seemed to enjoy.

August 26th Tuesday
Another fine but cold morning. Took car out to Palermo [a quarter of Buenos Aires] to the zoological gardens. Had a good time. I know the people at home would laugh if they had seen we three great things having a ride round the gardens on a miniature train. We laughed! Until I got something in my eye. Oh dear it was business. Had some lunch in the cafe there, coffee and cakes. Father ate about seven, Norah and I thought he was never going to stop. We spent quite 3 hours there, then got the car to back to the ship, but got into the wrong one and got landed miles from home. Eventually arrived on board safely after having to take two more cars, in time for tea. Stayed on board all evening. Turned in early.

August 27th Wednesday
Stayed on board, washed shirts and socks for father, while he went ashore. Father brought heaps of letters back for us. Great Excitement! Went to seamen’s mission concert, not near as good as the week before. Had a cup of coffee and cakes at Londres Cafe. Hire a taxi to take us back to the ship, while endeavouring to shut the window on it the whole window shot out of its place and the pane of glass fell out crash in the road. Dear me! I was scared, however the man said little about it and what he did say we did not understand, so it didn’t matter. We were flying along very nicely when the wretched thing stopped, the man got out to see what he could do, but it was no use, it would not budge, we had to get out too and look for another taxi as it was getting late. It was then we knew more about the window and father had to give him money to quiet him, We came to the conclusion his taxi was In rather a bad state taking all things into consideration. However we got another one and were soon safe on board again.

August 28th Thursday
Went ashore early, father bought us a hat each. White ones ruined with coal dust. Afterwards met Captains Wareing and Yates had a glass of hot milk each and sandwiches. Took a taxi out to Palermo to see the races. Then had some tea, then drove down into town again and had a walk round to see the shops and people promenading. Capt. Yates invited us all to dinner at the German Cafe and a very good dinner we had, and heard some fine music. Afterwards went to the pictures. More hot milk and taxied back to the ship after spending an exciting day. Jack ashore enjoys himself and so he needs to for surely at sea his life is hard and very lonely.

Come to the conclusion of what I’ve seen of Buenos Aires it must be a very rich place. As to the life of the people, they lead a very fast sort of life. There doesn’t seem to be any home life in this country and how the people do gamble, dice are supplied at all cafes and one sees men continually tossing for who should pay. But apart from all this it is a very fine city, which fine buildings, statues, and boulevards some of which are as much as one mile long and very wide. Oranges are very plentiful and extra good and cheap, but the majority of things here are dear in the way of food and clothes.

August 29th Friday
Raining, did not go ashore in the morning. Weather fair by noon. Went ashore about 2:00pm. Met Capt. Woodward and his wife had tea with them at the “Five O’Clock” [cafe] in Florida [quarter of Buenos Aires]. Afterwards we went on board the s/s Hyacinth, (Capt Yates) for dinner, had a sing song. Got on board at 11:30pm.

August 30th Saturday
Fine clear morning. Stayed on board made a bird cage cover and wrote letters. Canon Carney and his wife and little Peter came for tea. In the evening did some sewing and had gramophone going.

August 31st Sunday
Fine clear morn. Wrote some letters in the morning. Afternoon hired a taxi and drove out to the camps, then back as far as Palermo. dismissed the taxi and went into the Recolita cemetery. Such a weird place, it was full of shrines some of which were built of marble with huge doors of plate glass and brass work. Inside were very gorgeous altars, with beautiful carved crucifixes, candlesticks, altar cloths with lovely lace on them and many plants and flowers about, Under the altar there was a recess for a coffin. From this little chapel I like place there was a stair case placed in such a way as to enable you to see through the glass door that it lead ever so far before and bottom upwards, there were shelves upon shelves for more coffins. It was a weird place and surely a village of the departed. Avenue after avenue of these shrines, some of which had beautiful statues over them. After seeing all this we walked round part of Palermo then took the car to Buenos Aires had tea and went to St. Johns mission church.

September 1st Monday
Stayed on board and wrote letters in the morning. In the afternoon went out to Martinez to visit Capt and Mrs Woodward had a very nice time at their nice bungalow. Before dinner we had a walk, went up an avenue of eucalyptus trees. I shall never forget the inspiring sight as we sauntered along it was almost dusk and we could see the sun setting in all his glory at the other end of this avenue of stately trees the archway they formed lent enchantment to the scene. After dinner we had a sing song, father and Capt. Woodward sang some old shanties they used to sing in the old apprentice days when weighing the anchor, or hoisting a topsail. Left Martinez by 10:20pm train having spent a most enjoyable day.

September 2nd Tuesday
Did not go ashore in the morning wrote to Wal [her fiance, Walter Nicholson] instead. Received a letter from him also from Mr. [George, her future father-in-law] Nicholson, Aunties Emily and Harriet and Ada Ingharn. All very much appreciated. Went ashore in the evening had coffee at the Sportsman’s cafe and heard some good music. Then taxied back, on board at 10:30pm.

September 3rd Wednesday
Not feeling very fit stayed on board all day, wrote letters and did some crochet work.

September 4th Thursday
Fine fresh morning went ashore. Had lunch met Capts. Yates and Wareing went to races. Didn’t enjoy it came back by train. Should have gone to Canon Carney’s for dinner but gangway was too hard to get ashore by. Stay on board instead and did some crochet had gramophone going.

September 5th Friday
Fine clear morning. Did not go ashore, had a bad cold. laydown all afternoon. In evening Norah and father went on board the S.S. Lynorta for dinner, I did not go, had a dose of quinine and turned in at 7:00pm instead. made quite a picturesque [women] were to be seen in banks of the river.

As 6 bells was struck we dropped anchor in the harbour of San Nicolas. The Capt. of the port came off to us in a motor boat also to see that all was well on board. Pratique [permission to dock after quarantine or upon showing clean bill of health] was given we steamed alongside the bank under grain shoots and moored. In the afternoon loading was commenced, all being well, we went ashore.

After paying the agent a visit we had a stroll through the quaint little town, the inhabitants coming to their doors to see us, as if we were some kind of animals. That is all we saw of the inhabitants the streets for the most part were quite deserted. The main street had almost 1 dozen shops.

September 6th Saturday
Fair but overcast. Discharging finished. Made start for San Nicolas at 1:00pm. Read all evening and turned in at 9:30pm.

September 7th Sunday
Fair but overcast, little sunshine at intervals. Father anxious for holds to dry after being washed of coal dust in readiness for grain cargo, on our way up the river Parana which is very narrow in parts thus we have a fine view of the surrounding country, which is flat prairie land with here and there a bluff. On the banks are shacks such as one reads about in Canada. Cosy little places they look down in the brushes, some however were built 5 or 6 ft from the ground with verandas round. There were plenty of cattle and horses to be seen grazing. We anchored again as soon as darkness set in. The river pilot came and sat a short while with us in the evening. He being a Norwegian, he couldn’t understand our language, neither we his, so we made him at home by playing a few selected tunes on the gramophone. Turned in early.

September 8th Monday
Hazy morning at 6:00am anchor weighed, proceeded towards San Nicolas, but at lam thick fog set in, anchored again until 10:00am, when we started off again, weather clear and sunny, the scenery being much prettier in this part of the river, the land more cultivated and plenty of big ranches about Saw a rancher on horseback driving in the cattle. His wide sombrero and pants of sheepskin scene. As we approached San Nicolas several Indian their bright coloured dresses, washing clothes on the in it and they were quaint ones too. The houses all only one storey high. Windows all with gratings to keep the doves out Streets, very narrow in bad condition. A plaza which was quite nice with plenty of nice palm trees and a bandstand. Two broken down looking tramcars each drawn by a couple of mules, the tramway lines were very unevenly laid in dips and hollows, it was funny to see this rocking horse business logging along. The driver rang a dinner bell at every corner to warn the people of its approach. We then wandered through a few more cobbled and deserted streets, had a cup of tea in a would be cafe, then went and sat down by the river for a while and back on board in time for tea. In the evening stayed on board and did some crochet. Moonlight night walked about on deck. Quite a pandemonium bull frogs croaking. Owls hooting and rats squeaking.

September 9th Tuesday
Beautiful sunny morn, did some washing. In the afternoon went ashore, took some photos. Had great fun with some school boys and father pretending to take their photograph. Had a drive round for a half hour and saw all of San Nicolas. On board at 4:00pm, stayed on board, awkward to get ashore at night having to go down companion ladder, pull oars in a boat, up a ladder and steps up a steep cliff.

September 10th Wednesday
Fine clear morn, very hot, cotton dresses on. Mr. Weingreen met us at 1:30pm at the top of the cliff with a coach. Drove to his house where his two children (Linda and Cookie) and little maid joined us with some produce and 2 live turkeys to take to the ranch we were going to. We started off a merry party and were soon out on a very rutty trail across the prairie, the coach rocking and pitching in all directions. It was OK!! after three quarter hour drive, we alighted and got into a little boat, having to cross a creek in order to reach the ranch. The tenant and his wife gave us a hearty welcome. Had a look over the place, plenty of sheep, horses and cattle, look some photos. Sat on the veranda to cool down a bit Oh it was scorching. About 4:00pm had some afternoon tea and at 4:30pm made a move for return journey by sail down the river. Landed at a little grain station went on board the German steamer Dortmund, Hamburg Amerikan Line, Mr. Weingreen having some business to do. The Capt. Franck invited us all to supper (1 o’clock). Great hospitality shown. Left again at 9:00pm the coach waiting for us. We then drove back down the trail. In the moonlight to Mr. Weingreen house where he entertained us with some very good music, he being a fine musician. Back on board at 11:00pm. Having spent one of the happiest days of the whole holiday.

September 11th Thursday
Fine clear morning a little cooler. Went ashore with Mr. Weingreen in his steam launch, visited San Nicolas Boating Club. Then drove in queer sort of carriage to the hospital went all over it into the maternity portion too. Saw a man being operated on for a tumour on the left elbow. Also saw a growth which had been taken from under a woman’s arm, preserved in spirits.

Went into the chapel and dispensary a nun took us round, the nurses were all nuns and very sweet and kind they all looked, in fact I’d never seen such a comfy and nice hospital. Afterwards we went to see one of the curiosities of San Nicolas, a half blind man (German) who lived in a tree, his sleeping place being in the trunk of it. This man depended on scraps thrown from the passing trains for his food. After seeing this man we drove to the home of Mr. Weingreen’s mother-in-law, which was beautifully furnished. Such a lovely garden too, with palm trees, lemon trees which were heavily laden with fruit and we gathered quite a lot to bring on board with us. Orange trees in full bloom, statues here and there also a fountain. A great pity that this lovely dwelling place should be without its tenant nearly all the time.

We then drove back to Mr. Weingreen’s had lunch. From there to ship chandler’s to say goodbye to his wife, who gave us a lovely bunch of flowers, We then drove to the cliff got into Mr Weingreen’s motorboat in order to get to the St. Oswald as she was now out in the bay ready for sailing. Said goodbye to Mr. Weingreen and started for Buenos Aires at 3:30 pm for the remainder of cargo. When passing the S S Dortmund [MV Dortmund] an hour later, we saluted by blowing the whistle which was answered by hauling up the German ensign and signalled by flags (Wishing you a pleasant voyage).

We replied with flags (Thank you). Thus we said farewell to San Nicolas in the fast approaching darkness. Having spent very happy time there and sorry to leave it. At 10:00pm a heavy thunderstorm passed over the ship and rain coming down in torrents and hail like big marbles. The lightning so vivid that it lit up the country for miles around. The storm was so furious, we had too anchor for some hours until the weather was more settled. At 4:00am we started on our way again.

September 12th Friday
Overcast but fine, steaming slowly towards Buenos Aires.

September 13th Saturday
Arrived at Buenos Aires. Docked in Norte Dique 3 at 11:30am. Started to load cargo, Crocheted all afternoon. Did not go ashore in the evening.

September 11th Sunday
Mr. Weingreen came down at 10:00am to take Norah and I to an agricultural show, but it was too wet to go. Got into a taxi which was waiting on the dock for us. Drove to the Plaza Mayo to call for a friend of Mr Weingreen’s. He was out. Mr. Weingreen left a note for him to join us at lunch in the Sportman Cafe. Had a drive round the town being too early for lunch. Went into a Cathedral and saw mass celebrated. Afterwards went to lunch (or breakfast as the Argentinos call it), OK. where Mr. Cobbalt and his cousin Mr. Symons joined us. Sat sometime in the cafe hoping the rain would stop but all in vain. We then drove in taxi to Roller Skating rink. Enjoyed it very much.

Had tea at the Rumpel Meyer Cafe. Afterwards taxied out to Palermo to the ice rink. Had a fine time, but fell twice Mr. Weingreen did his best to help me to skate. At 8:00pm we drove in a carriage to the Hotel Provence where we had wash and tidy up. Then took the care to the Royal Keller where we had a real good dinner, left there at 9:30pm for the pictures. Then taxied on back to ship. Messieurs Weingreen, Symons and Cobbalt seeing us safely on board.

September 15th Monday
Fine morning but dull. Went to the Agricultural show with Mr. Weingreen and Mr. Cobbalt in a taxi. Saw some fine animals and in the farm implement part some excellent labour saving machines. Wished I could have bought one for Wal. All was most interesting. Had photo taken those kind finished while you wait. Had lunch then drove back to ship on board at 3:00pm. Said goodbye to Mr. Weingreen and his friend and thanked them for their kindness. Mr. Weingreen having shown great hospitality both at San Nicolas and Buenos Aires. In the afternoon Capt. Woodward his wife and little boy came on board and had afternoon tea and dinner with us. Mrs. Woodward very kindly brought us some doughnuts which she had made herself, they were OK. They left early on account of the child. Rest of evening played gramophone and turned in at 11:15pm feeling dead beat.

September 17th Wednesday
Fine sunny morning left Buenos Aires at 3:00am. On our way down Rio de la Plata. Passed Recalada light ship at 7:00pm. Pilot left us an hour later at Montevideo.

September 18th Thursday
Fine clear morning out on the ocean once more, all on board settling down to sea life again. Some bags of grain had to be removed from one hold to another. In afternoon read and crocheted. Evening played bridge.

September 19th Friday
Fine clear sunny morning. Getting warmer. Crocheted and did some knitting. In afternoon made some lemon cheese pottered about, in evening played bridge. Poor Dick bird got out of his cage and flew overboard and was killed by a molly hawk. All of us very upset about it. Saw moon rise, a glorious sight.

September 20th Saturday
Fine clear morning bright sunshine. Was troubled to learn when I got up that Lizzie, one of the young canaries, had got out of her cage and flown over board like her father and met an untimely end. Did some shooting, and crocheting in afternoon and played bridge in the evening.

September 21st Sunday
Being Sunday all quiet on board. Read and slept in afternoon sea air very strong wakes one awfully sleepy! Printed some photos. In the evening had gramophone playing.

September 22nd Monday
Fine clear sunny morning, Did some washing 1st mate helped us. In afternoon made some Lemon Cheese ~ and Norah sonic potato cakes. Also did some sewing for father, Passed [lighthouse] C. Frio [Cabo Frio, Brazil] and St Thonie [Cabo de Sao Tome, Brazil] lighthouse at 6:30pm.

September 23rd Tuesday
Another beautiful sunny morning. Did some ironing. Mended some stockings and crocheted and read a little. Rather cloudy towards evening and rained a little, Passed the Abrolhos [Rocks] [Arquipelago dos Abrolhos, off Brazilian coast], picked up the light[house] myself before the officer on watch.

September 24th Wednesday
Moderate wind and sea. Overcast Crocheted etc. and mooched about. In evening played cards. Rain and equally, turned in at 11:00pm.

September 25th Thursday
Fine clear, very warm nothing to comment about.

September 26th Friday
Fine clear weather with choppy sea. Passed numbers of fisherman in their native boats made out of small logs and lashed together with bamboo, just rafts in fact, off the coast of Brazil all along this coast is a reef about 10 miles with gaps in between which acts as a natural breakwater, We steamed along quite close to the land, being able to see the jungles which are full of wild animals and saw some native huts on the beach. Plenty of whales at 7:00pm we passed the port of Pernambuco [Recife, Brazil]. Father passed as a mate 35 years ago. Beautiful sunset, fine clear starry night.

September 27th Saturday
Fine clear weather sea still choppy. Did usual knitting and crocheting, very warm, felt tired and inert

September 28th Sunday
Nothing special to comment on.

September 29th Monday
Bright and fair weather, did usual washing. sailing ship gave them their longitude and latitude. played cards in the evening, fine starry night, passed bound. Alone midday, passed Crocheted in afternoon, several vessels outward

September 30th Tuesday
Did some ironing and mending. Steward showed us how to make balm. Sewed all afternoon. Did some knitting in the evening and played cards.

October 1st Wednesday
Cloudy and overcast. Rained during the morning. About on midday passed a Genoese barque Nostra Madre quite close. Their crew lined up on the deck. and one Johnny perched himself on the rigging, all waves their hats as we steamed quickly past signalling them a pleasant passage, we also gave them their position for which they signalled back “Thank you”. Norah and I took our lime juice along with the sailors at bells. (It being the custom on board ship to give the sailors lime juice when the vessel is 10 days out to prevent scurry.)

October 2nd Thursday
Heavy strong wind and rough sea with heavy northerly swell. Steamer pitching.

October 3rd Friday
Strong wind heavy sea. Frequent rain squalls. Boat pitching violently. passed Cape Verde [Arquipelago de Cabo Verde] did some writing and crocheted. Cards in the evening.

October 4th Saturday
Strong head wind and high sea. Boat pitching violently and taking sea forward. Sky overcast and cloudy. Took some photos of rough sea.

October 5th Sunday
Fair with moderate sea, Nothing special to comment on.

October 6th Monday
Air and sunny smooth sea. Crocheted all morning,. Passed mail steamer SS Thessaloniki bound from Sidney to London. Played cards in the evening.

October 7th Tuesday
Fair weather sunshine and smooth sea. Anchored in Las Palmas harbour 9:00am. Bum-boats in plenty laden with goods to sell to the sailors in fo’castle [forecastle], lace, silk. etc., tobacco, scent and fruit, etc. Went ashore in agent’s launch at 11:00am. Had lunch at Turey’s English Hotel.

October 6th Monday
Afterwards took a walk along Main St., saw as many as 5 mules drawing one cart! Native women very picturesque and it was a sight to see the how gracefully they balanced the water pots on their heads. Returned to Hotel to await for mola char-a-banca to take us up the mountain. We started off in good style over cobble road, and after 10 mins jolting we stopped to pick up remainder of passengers. A motley crew, mostly peasants who had been down from mountain to Las Palmas to buy their goods. We were soon on our way up the mountain side, through passes and ravines, such a winding road. Through little villages, where women were busy, packing tomatoes for export, the higher we went the land was more cultivated the lower part of mountains being very sun dried and desolate looking, but higher up there were plenty of banana plantations, tomatoes, grapes and maize and olives. In parts of the road there were hedges of cactus plants and avenues of eucalyptus and palm trees and the scenery was perfect, a stream running down the mountain side was caught in gutters, where women washed their clothes….

October 6th Monday…continued
Mules tethered near by to take them to take them to their homes perhaps they had come some distance to this public washing place. One was struck with the simplicity of life, the freedom, everyone looked so happy and content and so they might be for nature was at her best up in those lofting valleys so far from the maddening crowd. After 2 hours ride we reached our destination San Roque, where we had a cup of tea with no milk or sugar in, this comes of not being able to speak the language. About 1 hour later at 4:30pm we started back for Las Palmas on the way met several peasants winding their way home on mules with umbrellas up to shade the sun. Thank goodness the driver of the motor was experienced and careful, for it was a perilous journey the slightest mistake and we would have been dashed over a precipice. We all thoroughly enjoyed this novel experience and arrived back at 6:30pm, famished and ready for dinner at 7:00pm. We left the hotel at 8:00pm the moon was up and all peaceful and quiet without, we sauntered towards the main street where we took the car down to the harbour…

October 6th Monday…continued
… It was quiet interesting to see the way courting was done in this little island. The girl sat at the open shutter and the boy stood outside on the street to make love, in cases when they more than cared for one another he was supplied with a chair to sit on, my! it was funny to see these fellows along the road at intervals, some standing others sitting and the girls head peeking out of the window. Then one would see some very forlorn maidens looking anxiously for their beaus, or an equally anxious lover, knocking at these funny little doors in the shutters, calling to the girl to open it. By this time we were at the harbour. Called at agents to see if orders had come and found we were bound for London. We then took a steam launch and were soon on board, About 10:00pm anchor was weighed and we were steamed towards London.

October 8th Wednesday
Fair and sunny. Did usual in afternoon pottered about the galley and made some lemon cheese. In evening cards.

October 9th Thursday
Fair and sunny moderate wind and smooth sea. Nothing to comment on except passed German schooner Arnoldus Vinnen, they signalled asking us to report them on our arrival at London, Norah took a snap of it.

October 10th Friday
Fair moderate wind and sea, heavy swell, nothing special.

October 11th Saturday
Ditto.

October 12th Sunday
Fair. wind and sea moderate. Passed Cape Finisterre [Cabo Finisterre, Spain] plenty of vessels passing both north and south. Moonlight.

October 13th Monday
Fair, wind and sea. Passed Ushant [Ile d’Ouessant, France] all hands busy getting affairs fixed up for going into port.

October 14th Tuesday
Fair clear weather. Passed Beachy Head [lighthouse east of Brighton] at midday an hour later Royal sovereign lightship. Took London Pilot on board at Dungeness [England] at 4:00pm. Weather being clear we had a fine view of the chalky cliffs of Folkestone and Dover. Signalled by Morse lamp when we passed Dover at 6:00pm. As darkness set in we could see the lights of these different ports twinkling in the distance. Arrived off Gravesend at 12:00pm. Anchored for the night. Doctor came aboard to see that there was no sickness on the ship.

October 15th Wednesday
Clear fine morning at 10:00am we proceeded towards London, father having pratique[Clearance granted to a ship to proceed into port after compliance with health regulations or quarantine] to enter the port. Arrived in dock at midday. Leonard was there to meet us. In the evening went to Ann’s Terrace stayed there all night.

October 16th Thursday
Went on a shopping expedition with Elorrie and Ethel. Had dinner at one of Lyons Cafe’s, afterwards finished rest of shopping. At 5:30pm met Leonard [brother] and father had tea and went to pavilion.

October 17th, 1913 Friday
Stayed on board all day.

[Diary Ends]